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SURVIVAL

A parade of drummers and flag throwers in the Piazza della Signoria celebrating the mediaeval football festival

Security, mosquitoes, water and traffic.When to visit and
when not to: time of year, climate and crowds.

The historical centre and what I saw of the rest of it suggested that Florence was a very secure place, quite unlike many of Britain's major cities. Although you see some transients and alcoholics sitting about in one or two of the squares, they do not seem threatening and do not bother you. There are a few beggars, but we didn't personally see any sign of the gangs of child beggars/pickpockets that you can encounter in Rome.

The worst threat we experienced was from mosquitos. An electric device which toasted repellant tablets seemed to be effective in the bedroom, but lots of mosquitos lurked in wait in the ensuite bathroom.

There are public fountains providing drinking water, but less than in Rome. Toilets are much more plentiful than Rome, are clean and well-kept and invariably cost 50 cents. Some older ones are of the hole-in-the-ground variety and require a good sense of balance.

The traffic is less frantic than Rome and you can cross the roads without praying or life insurance.

WHEN TO VISIT

We visited Florence in the first half of June (2002). Our first few days there were unusually cool and wet. It was also less crowded than it might have been, with the Japanese apparently staying at home because of the World Cup. The Japanese are renowned for moving around quickly in large guided groups, an inevitable result of linguistic barriers and short holidays. The overwhelming majority of tourists there, however, are Americans and all those whom we encountered were well-behaved, friendly, helpful and particularly charming. To experience fewer tourists and less heat, a visit earlier in the year is recommended. Above all, avoid August.

Rik - 26 March 2003